Foundations and interiors
Foundation repair and basement waterproofing
Foundation crack repair, underpinning and piers, basement waterproofing, weeping tile replacement, crawl space encapsulation and bowing wall repair for homes and small buildings across Canada and the US. Request a free quote online. For homeowners, landlords and property managers. Quote requests by email.
What's covered
- Foundation Crack RepairMost poured-wall cracks can be sealed from the inside with epoxy or polyurethane injection, which fills the crack through the full wall thickness. Epoxy restores strength on structural cracks, while flexible polyurethane suits leaking cracks that may still move a little. Block walls and wide or offset cracks often need a different approach, and if the crack comes from settlement, the movement has to be stopped first.
- Underpinning & Pier InstallationWhen part of a house is sinking, piers transfer its weight past the weak or shifting soil to a firmer layer or bedrock. Steel push piers are driven hydraulically against the weight of the structure and suit heavier buildings. Helical piers are screwed in to a measured torque and work well for lighter structures, porches and additions. Depending on the case, the house can sometimes be lifted back toward level during the process.
- Interior Basement WaterproofingAn interior system catches water where it enters at the floor-wall joint and sends it to a sump pit, where a pump discharges it away from the house. The work is done from inside, so there is no digging around landscaping, driveways or neighbouring lots. A dimpled membrane on the walls guides seepage down into the drain. Battery backup pumps are worth discussing in areas with frequent storms or power outages.
- Exterior Waterproofing & MembranesExterior waterproofing stops water before it reaches the wall. The soil is dug down to the footing, the wall is cleaned and repaired, then a waterproof membrane and drainage board are applied. It is usually combined with new weeping tile and clean backfill. It is the more thorough option when access allows, and it is the standard approach for new foundations and major renovations.
- Crawl Space EncapsulationA damp crawl space feeds musty air, wood rot and pests into the rest of the house. Encapsulation covers the ground and walls with a heavy vapour barrier sealed at the seams, closes the outside vents, and controls moisture with a dehumidifier or a small amount of conditioned air. Standing water, drainage issues and damaged joists are dealt with first so the barrier is not hiding a problem.
- French Drain & Weeping Tile ReplacementOlder clay tile and early plastic pipe can collapse or fill with silt and roots, and some older homes never had any. A camera inspection shows its condition.
- Bowing & Leaning Wall RepairSoil pressure, frost and poor drainage can push basement walls inward, often showing up as a horizontal crack partway up the wall or stair-step cracks in block. Carbon fibre straps suit walls with limited movement. Wall anchors and steel braces resist more pressure and some can be tightened over time. Walls that have moved too far may need to be excavated, straightened or rebuilt, so measuring the deflection is the first step.
How the work is handled
- Cause Before FixCracks and water are symptoms. Settlement, hydrostatic pressure, frost, poor grading or a failed drain usually explain them, and the repair should deal with that.
- Written ScopeMethod, materials, number of piers or length of wall, permits, timeline and site restoration, all written down before any work starts.
- Climate-Aware AssessmentsFrost depth, freeze-thaw cycles, clay soils and high water tables change what works. Local specialists take your area into account.
- Clear OptionsWhen more than one method can work, such as interior versus exterior waterproofing, you see both along with the trade-offs.
- Homes and Small BuildingsSingle-family homes, duplexes, triplexes, small apartment buildings and small commercial properties.
- Form Only, Your PaceSend the details when it suits you. Nobody calls you before you ask for a quote.
By climate
- Long, cold winters with heavy snow and a short, warm summerDeep frost pushes on foundation walls and spring snowmelt raises the water table, which is when most basements leak. Ask whether the fix handles hydrostatic pressure as well as the crack, and book exterior digging between thaw and late fall.
- Wet maritime weather, salt air, many freeze-thaw cycles and storm-driven rain and snowHeavy rain, wet soil and repeated freeze-thaw keep foundations under water pressure for long periods. Ask about drainage tile condition, sump capacity and grading, and plan exterior membranes for a dry stretch so the trench does not fill while the wall is open.
- Four seasons: humid summers, cold winters with snow and repeated freeze-thawFreeze-thaw widens cracks, while summer storms and clay soil that swells and shrinks push on walls. Ask the contractor to explain whether the crack is structural or just leaking, and whether interior drainage or exterior membrane suits that wall.
- Hot, humid summers, mild winters, heavy storms and in coastal areas hurricanes; pests and mold all yearExpansive clay, heavy rain and long droughts make slabs and foundations move, and crawl spaces stay damp all year. Ask about soil type, pier or underpinning options, and crawl space encapsulation with humidity control rather than vents alone.
- Desert heat, strong sun and UV, dust, monsoon downpours, very little freezingBasements are rare, but dry soil shrinks away from slabs and sudden monsoon water soaks it again, cracking foundations. Ask about soil moisture, drainage away from the house and whether watering near the slab is part of the problem.
- Dry, high-altitude climate with strong UV, big day-night swings, snow and freeze-thawExpansive soils, freeze-thaw and fast snowmelt on slopes put pressure on foundations, often unevenly. Ask for an assessment of drainage and grading on the uphill side, and whether wall bracing or piers are needed along with waterproofing.
- Mild, wet marine climate: long rainy seasons, moss and moisture, little hard freezing near the coastMonths of rain saturate soil and keep basements and crawl spaces under steady water pressure. Exterior work is easier in the dry summer, so ask about scheduling, drain tile replacement and whether a sump and backup pump are part of the plan.
- Dry summers and wet winters, wildfire smoke and ash, earthquakes, almost no snow on the coastLong dry seasons shrink clay soils and winter storms swell them again, and earthquakes add stress to older foundations. Ask about retrofit bolting or bracing where relevant, and get drainage and crack repairs done before the rainy season starts.
- Extreme cold, permafrost in places, very short building season and remote freightPermafrost and deep frost make foundations shift as the ground thaws, so many homes sit on piles or adjustable supports. Ask about leveling and pile checks, insulation that protects frozen ground, and booking during the short thawed season.
Every written quote covers
- The cause, not just the symptom
- Method and materials in writing
- Permit and engineer needs
- Excavation and access plan
- Site restoration details
Questions
Is every foundation crack a problem?
No. Thin vertical or slightly diagonal shrinkage cracks in poured concrete are common and are often cosmetic. Cracks that leak, keep widening, run horizontally, follow a stair-step pattern in block walls, or have one side offset from the other deserve an assessment. Our blog has a full guide to crack types.
Should I waterproof from the inside or the outside?
Interior drainage with a sump pump manages water that reaches the wall. It is usually less disruptive and costs less. Exterior excavation with a membrane and new weeping tile stops water at the source, but it means digging around the house. The right choice depends on access, how much water you get, and the state of your existing drainage.
How much does foundation repair cost?
It varies a lot. Injecting one crack is a small job, while underpinning or full exterior waterproofing is a major project that can reach five figures. The price depends on the method, the length of wall or number of piers, excavation depth and access, soil conditions, permits, and what has to be restored afterward. The only reliable number is a written quote after an on-site assessment.
What is the difference between helical piers and push piers?
Both carry the weight of the house down to deeper, more stable soil or bedrock. Push piers are driven hydraulically using the weight of the structure, which suits heavier buildings. Helical piers are screwed in with torque and suit lighter structures, porches, additions and new footings. The choice depends on the load and the soil.
My basement wall is bowing inward. Is that urgent?
A wall that is bowing, leaning, or has a long horizontal crack should be looked at soon. Wall anchors, carbon fibre straps or steel braces can stabilize many walls. A wall that has moved a lot may need excavation and rebuilding, which is why acting early matters.
Do I need a permit?
Often for underpinning, structural repairs and exterior excavation, and sometimes for new drainage connections. The rules depend on your municipality. A proper quote should say whether a permit or an engineer's letter is needed and who takes care of it.
Do you handle multi-unit and commercial buildings?
Yes. Owners of duplexes, triplexes, small apartment buildings and small commercial properties are welcome to request a quote. Mention the building type and number of units in your email so the right specialist reviews it.
How do I get a quote?
Email us your city, the service you think you need, and what you are seeing. A specialist who works in your area follows up to set up an assessment. Requesting a quote is free and there is no obligation to go ahead.
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